🇺🇸 Licensed Residential Electrician Near Me | U.S.

Electrical Evaluations, Diagnostics & Safety (The Foundation)

• Comprehensive Home Electrical Safety Inspection: A full top-to-bottom review of your meter base, main panel (checking for rust, wear, and outdated brands like Federal Pacific or Zinsco), every breaker, a sampling of outlets and switches, and ensuring proper grounding. This is crucial for older homes or before buying a new one.
• Pre-Purchase Inspection: A specific inspection for homebuyers to uncover hidden issues like melted attic wiring or a failing panel that could cost thousands to fix later.
• Advanced Troubleshooting & “Detective Work”: Solving mysteries like intermittent circuit trips, flickering lights, or “phantom” power drains that spike your bill. This involves tools like multimeters and patience to track down the root cause.
• Thermal Imaging Scan: Using an infrared camera to see heat signatures inside walls and panels. This finds hidden dangers like hot, failing connections that are a major fire risk long before they fail completely.
• Voltage Drop Analysis & Ground Fault Isolation: Methodically measuring and testing to find the exact location of a problem, like a poor connection causing lights to dim or a short circuit buried somewhere in a wall.

Electrical Panel & Service Upgrades (The Heart of the System)

• Service Upgrade: Upgrading your home’s electrical capacity from an outdated 60A, 100A, or 150A service to a modern 200-Amp service. This is essential for powering modern homes with EVs, multiple AC units, and smart appliances.
• Main Breaker Panel Replacement: Swapping out an old, rusty, damaged, or recalled panel (like Federal Pacific Electric Stab-Lok) with a new, safe, and code-compliant model.
• Circuit Breaker Replacement: Replacing faulty, broken, or recalled breakers with the correct, manufacturer-approved type.
• Sub-Panel Installation: Adding a secondary panel to distribute power efficiently to a specific area, like a garage, workshop, or home addition.
• Preventative Maintenance: Performing crucial tasks like termination tightening (securing loose lugs in the panel that can cause overheating) and breaker exercising (ensuring breakers aren’t seized and will trip when needed).

Wiring Installation, Replacement, & Repair (The Veins & Arteries)

• Complete Home Rewiring: The comprehensive solution for homes with unsafe, outdated wiring like Knob-and-Tube (pre-1950s) or Aluminum Branch Circuit Wiring (1960s/70s).
• Circuit Extensions & Additions: Running new wires from the panel to add power for a kitchen remodel, home office, finished basement, or garage.
• Dedicated Circuit Installation: Adding a circuit that serves only one appliance (as required by code for refrigerators, microwaves, disposals, dishwashers, washers, dryers, and water heaters) to prevent overloads.
• Low-Voltage Wiring: Running wiring for thermostats, doorbells, central vacuum systems, and network/data cables (Cat6/6A).
• “Handyman Special” Remediation & Faulty Work Repair: Correcting unsafe and unlicensed electrical work, which is unfortunately a very common call we get.

Outlet, Switch, & Lighting Services (What You Interact With)

• Outlet Upgrades & Installation:
  • GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter): Required in wet areas (kitchens, baths, garages, outdoors) to prevent electrocution.
  • AFCI (Arc Fault Circuit Interrupter): Required in living areas (bedrooms, living rooms) to prevent electrical fires.
  • Tamper-Resistant (TR): Code-required for all new installations; have shutters to protect children.
  • USB & USB-C Outlets: For convenient device charging.
  • Weatherproof Outdoor Outlets: For patios, decks, and exterior walls.
• Switch & Dimmer Installation: From basic switches to advanced motion-sensor, timer, and smart dimmers that work with home automation systems.
• Lighting Installation & Repair:
  • Ceiling Fixtures & Fans: Chandeliers, flush mounts, and ceiling fans (including installing reinforced mounting braces in old ceilings).
  • Recessed Lighting (“Can Lights”): Installation involving new wiring and drywall work.
  • Under-Cabinet Lighting: Hardwired for a clean, professional look.
  • Exterior & Landscape Lighting: Security lights, path lights, and hooking up low-voltage transformer systems.
  • Vanity Lighting: Bathroom sconces and decorative lights.

Specialized, Modern & Niche Installations

• EV Charger (EVSE) Installation: Installing a dedicated 240-volt circuit for a Level 2 charger, which requires proper permits, wire gauge, and a specific breaker. It’s a major safety installation, not just a plug-in.
• Generator Hookups:
  • Manual Transfer Switch: For portable generators; a safe, code-compliant way to back up essential circuits.
  • Standby Generator: Full installation of a permanent automatic generator, including the pad, coordinating with a plumber for the gas line, and installing the automatic transfer switch.
• Whole-Home Surge Protection: Installing a heavy-duty surge protector at the main panel to protect every electronic device in your house from lightning and grid surges, far superior to power strips.
• Smart Home Integration: Installing and configuring hardwired smart switches, smart thermostats (ensuring the correct “C-wire” is present), and hubs for automated systems.
• Appliance Installation & Hookups: Hardwiring dishwashers, garbage disposals, garage door openers, water heaters, and HVAC systems.
• Jacuzzi & Hot Tub Hookups: A critical installation requiring a dedicated GFCI circuit and strict adherence to code for safety around water.
• Home Theater & Data Pre-Wiring: Running in-wall HDMI, speaker wire for surround sound, and Ethernet cables during construction or renovation.

Safety, Emergency & Remediation Services

• Smoke & Carbon Monoxide Detector Installation: Hardwired, interconnected installation so all alarms sound together, as required by modern code.
• Electrical Fire & Water Damage Assessment & Repair: Evaluating and repairing wiring and components after a disaster to make the system safe again.
• Urgent & Emergency Repairs: Responding to immediate dangers like burning smells from outlets, buzzing sounds from panels, visible sparks, or partial power loss.
• Aluminum Wiring Remediation (Pigtailing): Addressing the fire risks of old aluminum wiring using special code-compliant connectors (like COPALUM or AlumiConn) to join it to copper wire for outlets and switches.

Consultation, Design & Code Compliance

• Electrical Design for Projects: Designing the entire electrical layout for renovations, additions, or new builds, including circuit planning, load calculations, and fixture placement.
• Lighting Design Consultation: Advising on the type, placement, and control of lighting to achieve both function and atmosphere.
• Permit Pulling & Project Management: Handling the permitting process with the local building department for any major work, ensuring it is inspected and signed off for your safety and insurance compliance.
• Utility Company Liaison: Coordinating with the power company to upgrade the service drop from the street or manage power disconnects for major work.

The Toolbox & The Process (How the Work Actually Gets Done)

• Diagnostic Tools: This is our stethoscope.
  • Multimeter: Measures voltage, amperage, and continuity. The fundamental tool for any diagnosis.
  • Non-Contact Voltage Tester: A quick safety check to see if a wire is live.
  • Circuit Tracer & Toner: Finds which breaker controls a specific outlet or traces a wire through a wall.
  • Insulation Resistance Tester (Megger): Tests the integrity of the insulation on older wiring to see if it’s breaking down.
• Installation & Repair Tools: This is how we build.
  • Fish Tapes & Rods: Flexible tools to pull wires through walls, ceilings, and conduit with minimal damage.
  • Conduit Benders: For creating precise, professional bends in metal conduit (EMT).
  • Hole Saws & Drywall Saws: For creating clean openings for recessed lights, outlets, and panels.
  • Wire Strippers, Crimpers, & Torque Screwdrivers: Precision tools to make perfect, code-compliant connections that are neither too loose (a fire risk) nor too tight (can damage the wire).
• Safety Gear: This is non-negotiable.
  • Arc-Flash Rated Gloves & Face Shield: For working inside live panels.
  • Voltage-Rated Tools: Screwdrivers and pliers with insulated handles.
  • Lockout/Tagout Kits: To physically lock a breaker in the “off” position so no one accidentally turns it on while we’re working.

“My outlets are loose/falling out of the wall, and some don’t even hold a plug anymore.”

• Why it’s a common directive: This is a frequent sign of worn-out, back-stabbed outlets that are 20+ years old. The internal contacts wear out, creating a poor connection that can overheat. It’s also a major indicator that you still have un-grounded two-prong outlets, which can’t handle modern 3-prong plugs. Homeowners are constantly told to get these replaced with modern, secure, tamper-resistant outlets for safety and functionality.

“The lights in my house flicker or dim randomly, especially when a big appliance kicks on.”

• Why it’s a common directive: While some dimming when the AC starts is normal, significant flickering is a classic red flag. It often points to a voltage drop, which is caused by either an overloaded circuit, a problem at the utility connection, or—most alarmingly—a loose and overheating connection somewhere in the system (often at the main panel). This is a potential fire hazard, so homeowners are repeatedly warned not to ignore it.

“A circuit breaker keeps tripping.”

• Why it’s a common directive: This is the number one reason for service calls. The directive is always: “Don’t just keep resetting it!” A breaker that trips immediately is usually a short circuit (a hot wire touching a neutral or ground). A breaker that trips after a while is usually an overload (too many things on one circuit). A breaker that won’t reset at all often indicates a ground fault. Each of these requires a different diagnostic approach by an electrician to find the root cause safely.

“I have two-prong, un-grounded outlets all over my house.”

• Why it’s a common directive: This is arguably the most common issue in homes built before the 1960s. Homeowners are constantly told they can’t use their 3-prong computer, TV, or surge protector without a proper ground. They are directed to call an electrician to discuss options, which can include rewiring the circuit, installing GFCI outlets for protection (which is code-compliant), or, less commonly, adding a ground wire.

“My circuit breaker panel is old, makes a buzzing sound, or is a Federal Pacific or Zinsco brand.”

• Why it’s a common directive: Thanks to home inspectors, online articles, and insurance companies, homeowners are now widely directed to identify these specific, outdated, and known-to-be-dangerous panels. These brands have a well-documented history of not tripping during an overload, leading to potential fires. If someone is buying a house or has an older home, checking the panel is one of the first things they are told to do.

“There aren’t enough outlets in my room/kitchen, so I have to use power strips everywhere.”

• Why it’s a common directive: The constant use of extension cords and power strips as a permanent solution is a huge fire code violation and a common cause of electrical fires. Homeowners are consistently advised to stop daisy-chaining power strips and to instead have an electrician install additional outlets to meet the demands of modern life (multiple devices, TVs, computers, etc.).

“An outlet or switch plate is warm to the touch, or I smell a faint burning plastic smell.”

• Why it’s a common directive: This is a five-alarm fire directive. Heat at an outlet or switch signifies a failing connection directly at that device, which is actively overheating and posing a direct fire risk. The instruction is always the same: Turn off the breaker that powers that device immediately and call an electrician right away. Do not use it.

“I get a slight shock or tingle when I touch an appliance or a light switch.”

• Why it’s a common directive: Any sensation of shock is a major warning sign of a grounding problem or a fault in the appliance itself. It means electricity is finding a path to ground through you, which can be lethal under the wrong conditions. Homeowners are told to stop using the appliance or circuit and call for professional diagnosis immediately.

“My bathroom/kitchen/outdoor outlets don’t have the ‘test’ and ‘reset’ buttons” (i.e., they’re not GFCIs).

• Why it’s a common directive: The National Electrical Code has required GFCI protection in wet areas for decades. Homeowners are constantly reminded of this for their safety, especially when they are updating a bathroom or kitchen. It’s one of the simplest and most important safety upgrades we are called to do.

“I want to install a ceiling fan/light fixture, but there’s no existing box or the box isn’t rated for a fan.”

• Why it’s a common directive: A very common DIY mistake is mounting a heavy fan to a light fixture box that isn’t designed to support the weight and vibration. This creates a dangerous situation where the fan could fall. Homeowners are directed to call an electrician to install a fan-rated ceiling box that is properly secured to a structural joist.

“My house still has Knob-and-Tube (K&T) wiring.”

• Why it’s a Common Directive: This is the big one for pre-1950s homes. Home inspectors immediately flag it. Insurance companies often refuse to insure a house with it or charge exorbitant premiums. The directive is clear: This outdated wiring lacks a ground wire, its insulation becomes brittle and cracks over time, and it’s often dangerously modified. Homeowners are told to plan for a complete rewiring of the affected circuits.

“The wiring in my house is aluminum, not copper.”

• Why it’s a Common Directive: Common in homes built between 1965-1973, aluminum wiring expands and contracts more than copper, leading to loose connections at outlets and switches—a major fire hazard. Homeowners are directed to have an electrician evaluate it for pigtailing—using special COPALUM or AlumiConn connectors to join the aluminum wire to a short copper wire that then connects to devices. This is a critical safety repair, not just an upgrade.

“My electrical panel is overcrowded with double-tapped breakers.”

• Why it’s a Common Directive: A “double-tap” is when two wires are connected to a single circuit breaker terminal designed for only one. This creates a poor connection, leading to arcing, overheating, and melted wires. It’s a very common hack job. Homeowners are told to have an electrician correct this by installing additional breakers or properly joining the wires in a junction box with a pigtail to the breaker.

“There are no GFCI outlets in my kitchen/bathrooms/garage.”

• Why it’s a Common Directive: This isn’t just an inconvenience; it’s a code violation and a severe electrocution risk. Any outlet within 6 feet of a water source needs GFCI protection. Homeowners are constantly reminded of this during home inspections, DIY projects, and when using appliances near sinks. It’s one of the easiest and most important safety upgrades we do.

“My outdoor outlets, lights, and receptacles aren’t weatherproof or are broken.”

• Why it’s a Common Directive: Outdoor elements destroy electrical components. A cracked outdoor outlet box allows moisture in, leading to corrosion, shorts, and dead outlets. Homeowners are directed to have these replaced with proper weatherproof (WR) rated outlets and in-use bubble covers to keep everything safe and functional for holiday lights, power tools, and patio appliances.

“The wiring in my attic/basement is a mess of exposed wires and junction boxes.”

• Why it’s a Common Directive: Homeowners see this and know it looks wrong. Wires shouldn’t be strewn across attic floors or basement ceilings without protection. Junction boxes must be accessible (not buried in insulation or drywall). This is a sign of amateur work and is a fire and shock hazard. The directive is to have an electrician clean it up: run wires properly along joists, protect them with conduit if necessary, and ensure all connections are inside covered junction boxes.

“My lights flicker, and I’ve ruled out everything else.”

• Why it’s a Common Directive: When bulb and fixture issues are ruled out, flickering points to a loose service conductor. This is a potentially catastrophic problem where the main wires from the utility, connecting to your house, are loose. This can cause arcing, power surges, and fire. Homeowners are directed to call an electrician immediately, who will coordinate with the utility company to shut off power and secure the connection.

“I have no idea what half the breakers in my panel control.”

• Why it’s a Common Directive: This is a huge inconvenience and a safety issue. In an emergency, you need to quickly kill power to a specific room. An unlabeled panel wastes precious time. Electricians are called to map the entire panel, identifying every circuit and providing a clear, legible label for the homeowner. This is a simple, inexpensive service that provides immense peace of mind.

“My garage/shed/workshop has no power out there.”

• Why it’s a Common Directive: As homeowners use their garages for more than car storage (e.g., workshops, gyms, EV charging), the need for dedicated, robust power out there is huge. They are directed to call an electrician to run a dedicated underground circuit (in conduit) or to install a sub-panel in the garage to power outlets, lighting, and tools safely.

“The previous owner was a DIYer, and the wiring is… creative.”

• Why it’s a Common Directive: This is perhaps the most common source of problems we see. We call it “handyman special” wiring: extension cords used as permanent wiring, wires spliced with electrical tape instead of wire nuts, outlets installed without boxes. Homeowners are directed to have an electrician perform a safety inspection to find and correct these dangerous, unpermitted modifications before they cause a fire.

Indoor Electrical Tips

• Label Your Electrical Panel: Know which breaker controls what. If something trips or you need to shut off power, you’ll save time and stress.
• Avoid “Constant” Extension Cord Use: Extension cords are for temporary use only. If you need more outlets, have an electrician install them.
• Install Tamper-Resistant Outlets: Especially with young kids, these outlets prevent objects from being inserted into the slots.
• Use LED Bulbs: They produce less heat, use less energy, and reduce the risk of overheating in enclosed light fixtures.
• Don’t Ignore Frequent Breaker Trips: If a breaker trips often, it’s trying to tell you something. Don’t just keep resetting it, have it checked out.
• Feel Your Outlets and Switches: If any feel warm to the touch or make buzzing sounds, turn off the circuit and call an electrician immediately.

Outdoor Electrical Tips

• Use Weather-Rated Covers: All outdoor outlets should have waterproof “in-use” covers to keep rain and debris out, even when something’s plugged in.
• Install GFCI Protection: Any outlet outside, in garages, or near water sources must be GFCI-protected to prevent shock hazards. Test them monthly.
• Keep Cords Off the Ground: Avoid running extension cords across lawns or walkways where they can be damaged by mowers, foot traffic, or pets.
• Use Outdoor-Rated Fixtures: Only use light fixtures, transformers, and wiring specifically rated for outdoor/exposure to moisture and temperature changes.
• Don’t Overload Outdoor Circuits: Running string lights, power tools, and patio speakers all on one circuit can trip breakers or cause overheating.
• Check for Damage Seasonally: Inspect outdoor outlets, cords, and lighting for wear, corrosion, or animal damage before summer and winter use.